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modelling and prediction of tsunamis has no connection with mete-

orology at all. Yet the WMO’s GTS is utilized to disseminate tsunami

warnings, with several NMS having an even more direct involvement

in tsunami warning systems. Thus it is quite possible that some NMS

may be called upon to run the ocean models when they become fully

operational.

The assimilation of data, in situ and satellite-derived, into predic-

tion models is not a simple matter. The introduction of new types of

input data may render a model unstable, or even

adversely

affect

predictions. Nevertheless the science has progressed such that most

of the available real-time data is successfully assimilated into the

short-term prediction models: satellite-derived sea temperatures and

scatterometer winds into the atmospheric models; altimeter wave

heights, salinity and temperature profiles and sea level data into the

ocean prediction models. It is also important to remember that the

two types of model need to be fully coupled.

Benefits of short-term ocean forecasting

One of the major benefits of the development of ocean prediction

models is the new capacity for the analysis and forecasting of ocean

circulation, throughout the water column. Some examples follow.

Wave and current interaction, the development of abnormally high

waves and the danger to shipping are issues particularly pertinent to

the east coast of South Africa (beyond Port Elizabeth, most vessels

move inside of the Current, aiming to round Cape Agulhas). There

is a long history of vessels suffering major hull damage or even

foundering in this region. Wave prediction models have developed

to such an extent that their predictions are usually within 0.5-1 metres

of the measured wave height and their timing accurate to

a matter of hours (the air pressure data from the drifting

buoys far off to the southwest play a significant role).

SAWS was one of the first NMS to provide warnings of

possible abnormal wave conditions. However, with

predictions of the position and curvature of the Agulhas

Current, much more accurate warnings will be possible

and with fewer false alarms. Ten per cent of the vessels

rounding the Cape are large tankers – a major oil spill

on the coast could have a devastating effect on coastal

economies formal and informal.

On a shorter time scale, over smaller distances and in

relatively shallow water it is possible to predict oil spill

trajectories when the oil is close to the coast. The bene-

fits of these forecasts range from planning the

prepositioning of booms to evacuating sensitive marine

animal populations. Cape Town has been particularly

unfortunate in this regard. In June 2000 a large ore

carrier, the

Treasure

, sank at the entrance to Table Bay.

Even though this was not a tanker, its 1344 tons of heavy

fuel oil affected over 20,000 African Penguins, which are

a threatened species. A similar incident occurred in June

1994 when the

Apollo Sea

sank in the same area. This

was also a large ore carrier, but the fuel oil was sufficient

to pollute a large portion of the pristine Peninsula coast-

line, and oil over 10,000 penguins. A synthetic aperture

radar flying on Radarsat 1 showed clearly the extent of

the oil, even through cloud cover.

Storm surge damage on the east coast of South Africa, March 2007

Photo: Ken Mann

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