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] 95

amounts to approximately 3,000, with 200 living on

Thailand’s Surin Islands and the rest residing in Myanmar.

The Moken are very knowledgeable about their

surrounding environment and natural resources. A

nomadic lifestyle has made them excellent navigators

with detailed knowledge of the winds, tides and lunar

cycles. They are adept at hunting marine animals, includ-

ing sea turtles, sea urchins, fish and giant clams. To aid

hunting, a variety of different tools are employed, varying

from hand lines to purpose-built spears, axes and

hammers. The Moken are also highly knowledgeable

about the terrestrial environment. They use at least 159

species of plants for food and medicine, building mate-

rials and fuel. This knowledge of the marine environment

helped them recognize the receding tide of 26 December

2004 as a warning sign. When the seawater started to

recede, the Moken knew that a ‘La-Boon’ (tsunami) was

coming, so they took refuge on high ground.

The Thai Moken settled on the islands decades ago.

Here, they built bamboo huts suspended on stilts several

feet above water. Men fished, sold their catch to the

mainland and used their earnings to buy rice. Children

grew up in the water, where they learned to dive and

swim with skill. During low tide, the women scoured

the reefs for sea urchins, crabs, mussels and sea cucum-

bers. For years, the Moken led an isolated life until the

Surin Islands were declared a national marine park in

1981. This has triggered a range of complex issues for

the Moken that continue to entangle them today, espe-

cially the Moken children.

Indigenous knowledge

– “Providing education to

indigenous children is always complex. There is a risk

that offering standardized formal education will alienate

coasts of southern Thailand, the Philippines, Indonesia, Malaysia and

to the far north in the Mergui Archipelago of present-day Myanmar.

In Thailand, almost 10,000 sea nomads remain dispersed over the

coastal area and numerous islands of the Andaman Sea. These people

belong to three distinct communities: the Moken, Moklen and Urak

Lawoi, each with its own set of cultural traditions and language.

Since 1998, the Andaman Pilot Project, led by Chulalongkorn

University’s Social Research Institute, which is supported by

UNESCO and, most recently by the National Oceanic and

Atmospheric Administration (NOAA), has focused on action and

research to achieve sustainable development on these islands as well

as cultural heritage conservation among indigenous groups. With

generous funding from NOAA, the project was able to build upon

this work and contribute to the development of a model for equi-

table governance for sustained conservation of natural and cultural

diversity in the marine protected areas of the Andaman Sea.

For nearly ten years, the Andaman Pilot Project facilitated research

on the indigenous sea gypsy communities that inhabit two of

Thailand’s national marine parks in the Andaman Sea: the Moken of

the Surin Islands National Marine Park and the Urak Lawoi of

Tarutao National Marine Park in the Adang Archipelago. The pilot

project focused on collecting socioeconomic data about the Moken

and Urak Lawoi and working with stakeholders to foster an enhanced

understanding of the communities’ indigenous ways of life, build

community capacity, identify economic options that promote cultural

survival as well as natural conservation and encourage a coopera-

tive approach to the protection of the natural and cultural heritage

of the Surin Islands and the Adang Archipelago.

The indigenous knowledge that saved the sea gypsies

–While the other

sea gypsy groups, the Moklen and the Urak Lawoi, have integrated into

Thai society and acquired a modern lifestyle on land, the Moken remain

semi-nomadic. They live on boats out at sea during the dry season,

coming ashore only during the monsoon season. The total population

Rebuilding Moken village, Ko Surin, Thailand

Image: Derek Elias, January 2005, Ko Surin, Thailand